I am kind of obsessed with all the creative options of using Bar Top Epoxy. the latest project being theSailboat convertible table covered in dark brown laminate faux wood.. EW! Yet again, burdened by the nasty faux wood laminate.. I had to cover it! (see related post on the galley counter makeover)
Enter; a huge Puget sound map, epoxy, patience and willingness to try 3 times!
ok just so you know.. things do not always work the first time, or second.. GRRR. it took me 3 tries to finally get this table to turn out.. read on to learn what NOT to do when working with epoxy and what TO do…so you can be a winner the first try out 😉
Attempt 1: Used mod podge to glue map down on table and cover map, thinking if I sealed it then the epoxy wouldn’t saturate it and make the paper partially translucent.. Good idea in theory, but BAD because here’s what happened:
- forgot that mod podge makes paper “wrinkle” a bit (note to self, learning how to mod podge without wrinkles is on my list of todo’s).
- I poked the holes out of areas of the map that had big wrinkles.. BAD idea. left areas that epoxy could seep into and make “wetspots”
Attempt 2: Idea: Let the epoxy just make the paper all darker.. wetter looking, but if it’s all the same it should look fine. so I sanded a bit to make the first layer all even. then covered it with some contact paper to even out corners/spots then put the map over the top of the old layer.
- BAD idea.#1. I then used clear sealant to seal the edges around the map, thinking that nothing would “seep” under the map and it should not get to “wet”.. ummm well not only did that not work. all the areas with the clear caulk.. did not absorb the epoxy. so it looked BAD!
- YIKES! the map started showing through to teh below layers.. CRAP! I had to think fast and used the squeegee to squeegee off the epoxy and remove the map.. to figure out yet another attempt….
3rd and final attempt!
FINALLY it worked! here’s what I did so you don’t have to do all the crap above 🙂
I used a laminated version of the map. put the map down on the table via spray glue. then poured the epoxy over that. Vuwala.. no seepage in the paper, no wet spots and no translucent spots.
- If you are using paper, GET IT LAMINATED! it seels in the paper so that the epoxy doesn’t make it partially transluscent. (alternatively if you want it partially translucent, make sure the layer underneath is all the same)
- use spray glue to adhere it to where you want it.. so it doesn’t move during the epoxy pour and spread.
- use a heat gun or hair dryer over the epoxy after you pour it so that it gets rid of the epoxy bubbles.
- let it dry fo 72 hours before using normally..
I LOVE this table.. I have to say, every time I look at it though, I see all 3 attempts 🙂 it was such a project, I was at the point at one time where I wanted to just burn the whole thing and get a new table made.. SOOO frustrating!
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