I’ve been seeing barn doors all over pinterest lately and I just had to make one. I wanted one that had a vintage rustic vibe with a bit of industrial grittiness to it. So that meant, I had to make it (custom built doors are stupid spendy!).
The previous owners of our house left a large worktable in the garage, the top was with 2×6′s and it had the perfect “patina” I was going for.. as in all beat up, burned, hammered, painted, smashed, cracked but yet still solid pieces of wood. Bingo! this would be my new door
Here it is in all it’s beat up old glory!
I loved everything about it! see all those great burn marks and holes etc. Just perfect for my project!
This project may seem difficult but it’s really just time consuming vs. hard. I really think this could be a beginner project
So before we get started on the tutorial, here’s the supplies you’ll need:
- (7) 2×6 boards in 8′ lengths
- Pipe clamp
- 48″ length of 1/2″ plumbing pipe (to use with pipe clamp)
- Wood glue
- Orbital Sander
- 80 grit & 120 grit sanding discs (for orbital sander)
- (12) 1 1/4″ lag bolts
- (12) washers that fit the lag bolts (these go between the lag bold and strap tie)
- (2) 37.5″ strap tie
- Rustoleum Flat black Spray Paint
- Matte spray paint polyurethane finish
- Drill with drill bit size for the lag bolts you got
- Socket wrench
- Drill Bit for the lag bolt (just ask the staff at the hardware store to help if you don’t know what size to get)
- Miter saw – something to cut straight cuts across the 2×6′s
- (7) Foam Brushes (for painting wood conditioner, stain and polyurethane on)
- Shop towels - for wiping stain off after each coat
- Polyurethane semi-gloss solvent based finish
- Cabot Pre-stain wood conditioner
- Rustoleum Summer Oak Stain
- Varathane cognac stain (got it at home depot)
- All 1/2″ galvanized plumping pieces
- 12″ nipple (long part of handle)
- (2) 1″ nipples (to connect elbows to flange)
- (2) floor flanges
- (2) 90 degree elbows
Let’s get started!
Step 1: Install your barn door track following manufacturer instructions.
Step 2: Measure where top of door will hang to 1/2″ off the floor (so you have 1/2″ for the door to slide over). the location where the door will hang will be in the instructions on your barn door kit, so you will know exactly where the top should be.. so you know you can measure from their to 1/2″ off the floor.
Also measure width of door opening, to make sure (7) 2×6′s will be at least 6 inches wider than your door opening. If needed, buy another 2×6 to cover that width. It does not have to be exactly 6″ wider, so you don’t need to rip any of the 2×6 widths.
Step 3: Using your Miter Saw, cut your 2×6 boards to the length measurement. All of them should be the same length
Step 4: Using your wood glue and pipe clamps, glue the 2×6′s together. I did this in 3 separate “glue” bundles. I glued 4 pieces together, than 3 pieces then the whole thing. It was easier to manage the large boards.
Step 5: Once wood glue is dry, (remove optional 2×4 that was put on center of door for stability during gluing). Get that orbital sander out and use an 80 grit to sand and shape corners and get the overally look you want. Don’t over sand with the 80 grit or you will remove any “patina.” Once done with the 80 grit go to 120 grit for darn near baby but smooth feel .
Step 6: Get the Cabot pre-stain wood conditioner and your foam brushes and quickly do a coat following manufacturers instructions.
Step 7: Get the Rustoleum Summer oak stain and foam brush and do 2 coats of stain following manufacturers instructions.
Step 8: After the summer oak has dried, get out the Verathane Cognac and a foam brush. Do 1 Coat on the door. DON’T FREAK! It will look like you just covered your whole door in red and ruined all the awesome patina.. my “almost screwed it up but made it awesome” step will fix it as soon as you finish putting it on, wipe it off, at least what you can.
Step 9: BEFORE the cognac stain dries, literally after you finished putting it on. start from where you started putting the stain on and get out that orbital sander and about (5) 80 grit discs. start sanding.. I’m calling this “wet stain sanding.” Sand until you like what you see, you are basically smooshing the wet stain into all the crevices. you will have to change pads often since it’s wet stain. this method of sanding it off the edges but really getting it in the crevices, brings out the grain unevenly and in a very organic way. Finish up with 120 grit for smooth texture.. then set to dry
Step 10: Get out your polyurethane and yet another foam brush, and following manufacturers instructions do 3 coats of poly.
Step 11: Install your door track hardware on the door per manufacturer’s instructions
Step 12: Get out those strap ties and lightly sand them (80-120 grit paper). lay them out and use your flat black spray paint to paint them. (follow manufacturer’s instructions) 0ptional to finish with a coat of polyurethane.
Step 13: Once strap ties are dry, lay them out on your door, make sure to measure the same distance from the top of door to top of strap tie, and then the same distance from bottom of door to bottom of strap tie so it’s proportional.
Step 14: Get out the nails and nail that strap tie in place exactly on your measurements.
Step 15: Pre-drill the holes for the lag bolts and washers, then screw in the washer and lag bolts. (washers should fit nicely over the hole and work for the size of lag bolt you have)
Step 16: Take your plumbing pieces and put them together like what you see in the picture below. then using your screws and drill, screw it on the door.
Step 17: OPTIONAL! Install cat door! follow manufacturer instructions to insall
Step 18: HANG THAT DOOR! and enjoy all it’s beauty
Here’s some Barn door porn so you can see close ups…
let me know if you have questions!
Updated 8.1.13 – adding a picture of the back of the door so you can see that I did absolutely nothing to the finish :). the only bolts that went all the way through are from the door track hardware. the Lag bolts were shorter then the thickness of the wood so that they didn’t go all the way through.