DIY: Queen Bed with Reclaimed Wood Headboard and Footboard

This is my biggest custom build yet! I don’t know how to use sketch up/designs software for images, so I’ll list out the supplies and steps.. Unfortunately, I won’t be able to show pretty computer graphic designs for you. Ask questions and I can provide more detail or more photo’s as needed on this. It’s not a beginner build, due to the lack of very detailed pictures per step.  If you have some experience building, the instructions should “hopefully” make sense.

I made this bed for my daughter Maddy as a new queen bed for her,  and something she can take with her into adulthood… she was very surprised as we told her she couldn’t ever have a queen bed and then this showed up Christmas morning 🙂

 

Supplies:

  • Kreg Jig
  • 1 1/4″ kreg Jig screws
  • 2 1/2″ kreg jig screws
  • Wood glue
  • Miter Saw
  • Nail gun
  • Nail gun nails appropriate for size of headboard reclaimed wood + headboard plywood backer
  • Drill with appropriate size drill bit (for standard wood screws) and a Phillips head bit.
  • Satin polyurethane
  • Paint in your color of choice
  • Foam brushes
  • (16) 3″ screws (black or gold wood screws)
  • (30) 1 1/2″ screws (black or gold wood screws)
  • (6) finish molding for headboard edges (I used 1″ thick molding)
  • (3) 4x4x8 lumber
  • (5) 2x4x8 Lumber
  • (2) 2x8x8 lumber
  • (1) 1/2″ plywood sheet
  • (16) 1x2x8 lumber
  • Optional: Bed rail brackets for easily taking off the sidewall pieces  and easier disassembly of bed
  • Reclaimed lumber for headboard, or whatever you want to use  – I used old wood Lath in a herringbone pattern

Cut list:

  • (1) 1/2″ plywood cut to 60″x 35″ (headboard backer)
  • (1) 1/2″ plywood cut to 60″x  7.5″ (footboard backer)
  • (2) 2×8 cut to 81.5″ (sidewalls)
  • (2) 2×4 cut to 60″ (headboard support for cross bar and footboard support for crossbar)
  • (2) 1×2 cut to 81.5″ (support on sidewalls for the mattress slats)
  • (1) 2×4 cut to 83.5 (middle support bar for mattress slats)
  • (1) 2×4 cut to 12″ (middle support leg for mattress support cross bar)
  • (15) 1×2 cut to 61.5″ (mattress bed slats)
  • (2) 4×4 cut to 54″ (headboard support)
  • (2) 4×4 cut to 21″ (footboard support)
  • (2) 2×4 cut to 70″ (headboard and footboard topper)
  • Molding pieces cut AFTER headboard and footboard built, cut to fit inside frame of the headboard to clean up the edges.

Couple of things to mention:

  • The floor to bottom of bed is 12″ all around, so use this measurement as you build the bed for the footboard/headboards and side rails.
  • Bed rail brackets are great for the sidewalls so the bed is more easily removed.
  • You will have a lot of screws when assembling the bed, mostly for the bed slats

Step 1: Cut everything but the headboard pattern design from the reclaimed wood, you’ll do that in step 6.

Step 2: Make all pocket holes where needed with the Kreg Jig & pre-drill any bed slat screw holes, so you don’t have to do any pre-drilling later.

  • Sideboards you need them unless your using bed rail brackets, I used bed rail brackets, but you can do 4 per post i.e. 4 on the headboard side and 4 on the footboard side for each side rail.
  • Footboard 2×4 bottom piece needs them to attached to 4×4 posts
  • Footboard plywood backer needs them on all 4 sides to attached to posts and the top and bottom rail
  • Headboard plywood baker needs them on 3 edges for top headboard and 2 post attachment.
  • Need them for the middle cross bar to attached to footer and header support bar,
  • Need them on the 12″ leg post fort eh middle 2×4 support bar
  • pre-drill the ends of each 1×2 for the mattress slats and then center on these as you’ll have a center support bar on the bed to attach to when assembling, so each mattress slat should have 3 holes pre drilled.

Step 3: Sand all pieces

step 4: Attach the 2 mattress slat support bars (1×2’s that are cut to 83″) 

Basically take your sidewalls, and on the side that you have the kreg jig holes, you need to attached the bed rail along the bottom.  they line up flush with the bottom of your side rails on the INSIDE of the side rails. This is what your mattress bed flats will be attached to when assembling the bed.

Step 5: Paint All parts that need painting, let dry

Step 6: Build out reclaimed wood on the headboard and footboard panels.

  • I did mine with reclaimed lath in a herringbone pattern,
  • you’ll want to use anything that is 3/4″ thick or less for this part.
  • Attach with wood glue and nail gun – use nails that are the right size to go through your reclaimed wood and into the 1/2″ plywood but NOT through it to the back or you’ll have a pokey nail headboard/footboard backing.
  • You do not have to be perfectly all the way to the edge. You’ll be framing out the top/bottom/sides of this headboard with the 1″ trim at the end of the build so it will cover any “imperfect” edge cuts.
  • Most importantly, you do NOT want any overhang on the headboard/footboard plywood pieces or you will not be able to assemble the bed.
  • OPTIONAL: I painted the plywood piece the same color as the bed, so that any areas where the wood was showing some “gaps” it would show the same paints color as the bed.. yo don’t need to do this if you don’t want to.

building a herringbone headboard with reclaimed wood

Step 7: Attached headboard and footboard to posts

  • You want the headboard & footboard panels to be 1″ inset from the edge of the posts. This 1″ is on the side WITH the reclaimed wood. So when looking at the headboard, it should be set back 1″ from the edges of the posts.
  • easiest way to ensure you have 1″ setback is: Put the panels face down (reclaimed wood side down, so the back of the plywood is up)
  • I put strip soft 1″ thick wood underneath the panel.
  • Lay the posts next to the headboard piece and line it up with the top, now you are aligned with the top and the panel is 1’inset.
  • Once set and flush on the top of the posts and headboard/footboard, attached sides of headboard/footboard with 2 1/2″ kreg screws to the posts

Step 8: Attach the headboard and footboard top rail

  • These are offset 1.5″ on either side overhang on the posts. Since you attached the headboard/footboard panel flush, this fits right on top of the posts and panels nice and flush. Measure to make sure it’s 1.5″ offset on each side then pre drill and screw in 4  of the 3″ screws into the top rail into the post on each side for the headboard and footboard.
  • You can use wood filler to fill in the screw holes and paint over/touch up if you want.

Step 9: attached footboard bottom piece to finish framing the footboard

  • This is the painted 60″ 2×4 piece with kreg jig holes underside/bottom side. Attach underneath footboard panel with kreg jig underside.  It should be exactly 12″ from the bottom of this piece to the bottom of the post.

step 10:  attached headboard support, (2×4 piece cut to 60″ and NOT painted)

  • This will not fit flush under the headboard panel, as it doesn’t need to.
  • This needs to be attached 12″ from the ground (matches the footboard bottom piece height)
  • In the picture below, you can see its’ well below the bottom of the headboard .. it’s essentially here to add structural support and a place to attached the middle support beam to when assembling the bed

headboard support piece

Step 11: Flip over the headboard and footboard and apply finish:

  • apply your finish to the reclaimed wood. I did 2 coats of satin polyurethane on mine.
  • You do not need to make the polyurethane go to the edges of the headboard/footboard as you Wilber attaching 1″ molding to cover up the edges. So just get within 1/2″  of the edge.
  • You can see on this photo, the finish is not all the way to the edges, because in step 12, I’ll be adding molding

 

Step 12: frame out inside of headboard/footboard with molding pieces

  • I used 1″ wide pieces as I wanted to show as much of the reclaimed wood as possible – but have a nice finished/polished look to the bed.
  • You’ll need to measure and cut to fit.
  • Paint these pieces and attached with wood glue and nail gun.
  • you can see in the image below as I work on the footboard, how much it adds the final “finish” look to the bed.

framing in headboard and footboard

Step 13: attached bed rail brackets and make sure that the side rails are 12″ off the ground when attached with bed rail.

if you are using the bed rails (to make the bed easier to disassemble), you’d install them now before assembling the bed. Otherwise you can just fuse pocket holes with your Kreg Jig (4 per end of each side rail).

Step 14: Attach middle support bar Leg – 2×4 @83.5″ piece and the 2×4 @ 12″ piece 

The support bar is laying flat so that the 3.5 inch side of the 2×4 is horizontal with the ground. And the leg is attached underneath it to support the middle support bar and slats.

Step 15: assemble bed:

  • Attached side rails to headboard/footboard
  • Attached middle support bar to headboard/footboard base bars
  • Using 1 1/2″ screws attached bed slats to bed equal distance apart

Step 16… enjoy!

let me know if you have any questions.. it’s tough to follow a plan without drawings!

Happy building.

Lindsey

 

 

 

 

DIY Wall to Wall Built in Bunk Beds and a Full Room Remodel

diy wall to wall bunk beds built in bunk beds tutorial
Rehabbing a lakefront cabin… and loving it! This first project to share is our “Camp Room” themed bedroom with Built in Bunks.

Before  & After:

diy built in bunk beds into wall bedroom

I was inspired to create wall to wall bunks at our little getaway cabin that I’m currently rehabbing…Hence hardly any posts since September! I’m pretty much done with the majority of the “big” stuff, so I’ll start posting the projects 🙂

The idea behind cramming as many beds as possible in a small room is having 2 rooms with  1 queen bed in each and a set of built in bunks in each.  Meaning a family of 4 could stay in one room and our 4 younger kids in the other, then my husband and in our solo room.

The problem is, the existing 2 bedrooms to be used for the bunks rooms were WAY to Small to use as is, we could only fit a queen in the room.. Somehow we had to get another 4 feet off the back of the rooms to make enough space for bunks AND a queen bed. Our garage was right behind the bedrooms so Vuwalla… our extra 4 feet we got by pushing into the garage space (it’s a 2 car garage so we had the room.)

Here is the room as we blew out the back wall to allow for 4 more feet of space to fit in the bunks.  You can see 2 bedrooms, the camp room is the one on the left. I’ll do another post on the 2nd bunk room soon (the “Forest Room”)!

bulding new wall for diy built in bunk beds

Here it is after the drywall was done (btw. I hired out the demo, framing, Electrical and drywall.. I’m not THAT handy 😉 everything else I did myself.

bulding new wall for diy built in bunk beds drywall

At this point instead of texturing or finishing the drywall since I was going to build right over it. , I installed flooring (I went with laminate.. vs. hardwood, carpet or vinyl.. ) it takes a few frustrating hours to get the rhythm down on installing this “easy to install’ flooring..

Side note: I have to say, after living with laminate for a while at a lake, it was a bad choice, it swells up if you leave any standing water (i.e. swimsuits on the floor etc.) I frankly wish I went with vinyl… over any other flooring type.

diy installing laminate flooring pictures

Next I covered the popcorn ceilings, I was NOT interested in Scraping, and texturing and painting so I found the cheapest wood at Home Depot. Cedar fence boards at $3.48 for a 1x8x8 board then used my Brad nailer to put them up on the ceiling, this room cost about $160 when all said and done to cover the ceiling.

Supplies for the cedar ceiling to cover up the “oh so lovely” popcorn:

cover popcorn ceilings cheaply cedar fence boards

Now it was time to build out the bunks.. Here are the supplies for the bunks –

  •  (4) 2x10x10’s to do the sides and head/foot area
  • (4) 2x4x8’s for the inside mounts for the bunk bed mattress support strips
  • (32) firring strips, cut in 1/2 so that each bunk got 16 strips for the mattress support
  • (2) 2×4 pieces of 3/4″ plywood for the shelving base
  • (1) 1x12x8 piece for the shelves
  • a crap load of the thin cedar planking  not the fancy closet type.. but the rougher cheaper stuff – with tongue and groove.. that I used a brad nailer to install.
  • White paintable caulk like 6 containers or so
  • caulking gun
  • 4 joist hangers that are 2×4 in size to hang the end of the bed 2×4 that supports the plywood piece for the foot bed storage/shelf area.
  • paint, putty to cover nail holes, 3 inch screws to go into studs and 2×4-2×10’s and 2″ screws for the firring strips to 2×4 supports.

Pictures of the cedar planking, and all the putty for the nail holes.. then you go through line by line with caulk to seal every tongue and groove seam so the paint covers nicely with no holes.  If you look close enough you can see the 2×10’s that surround the wall, this is 3/4’s of the bunk bed frame. They are mounted to every stud I could find and 3 screws per stud.

framing built in bunks beds

Adding the outside 2×10 by using 3″ screws and putting 4-5 in each board through to the smaller 2×10 already attached to the wall.  you can see I did a coat of paint on the planking, and all the awesome white caulking lines.. this was WAY time consuming.

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Add the remainder of the cedar planking to the outside, putty, caulk and paint. 20141116_023709737_iOS

Add your footboard 2×4 cut to size using the Joist hangers to support (approx. 80″ for a twin XL enough room to tuck sheets,, ) then add your 2’x4′ piece of plywood cut to size to cover your foot board, and then add shelving and all the firring strips

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Here is the picture of the “foot board” I keep mentioning. btw all the outlets we had installed with USB ports 😉

footboard diy built in wall to wall bunk beds

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Here is the room all finished up!

diy wall to wall bunk beds built in bunk beds tutorial

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Let me know if you have questions.

Happy Diy’ing

Lindsey

DIY Stained Glass “Mosaic” on an Old Salvaged Window

stained glass window mosaic

I can honestly say, even I was surprised out nice this turned out, I wasn’t sure I’d get the right effect as I was a bit skeptical with glue and thick glass pieces, but I truly love how this turned out! Most of all, I love that 3 of my kids designed this and put thought and time into the project and were able to see this piece of art now hanging as a focal point in our home.

I’ve seen some old windows on Pinterest using old stained glass pieces or any glass pieces for that matter and turned into a great mosaic “stained” glass effect. After doing a bit of research, and having all the kids help design the layout. We cruised through this fun and rewarding project!

Here’s the supplies and steps I took to make our “stained glass” Mosaic on an old window.

Supplies:

  • Old window ( I purchased mine at Earthwise in Sodo Seattle) pick one that looks interesting to you, I liked ones with multiple panes.
  • E6000 glue
  • Glass pieces, bits and bobbles (you can get a great selection of glass pieces at Bedrock industries)
  • Sanded grout
  • Screw Eye Ring (2)
  • Screw hook
  • Sand paper (if you want to sand down the frame at all this is optional)
  • Chain if you want to raise/lower the window after hanging (optional)

Tutorial

Step 1: Clean and Sand as desired on the windows and get the glass as clean as possible. Here is the window the day I found it!

Old window stained glass mosaic

Step 2: Get all your glass bits together and have the kids (or yourself) lay out on the design on the window.  In this project, I had each of the girls get 2 “panes” of glass to decorate.  The kids designed and redesigned many times. The Middle of the window, I did this with Maddy and we decided on a “sun” type of design.

kids working on windows  photo 1

Step 3: Get your E600 glue out and start gluing down all the pieces. This takes a bit of time and you’ll want at least 34-48 hours of dry time before doing the grout.

dinwolhoi window kdhi

Step 4: Prepare and grout the window, let set for 24-48 hours and spray with a nice acrylic or polyurethane spray/sealer.

Step 5: Screw in the Eye Hooks and Screw in  Hook and hang that window!

stained glass window mosaic

Happy Diy’ing!

Lindsey